Valentine’s Day and Alex’s Birthday are only days apart, so he’s lucky I’m such a gift-giver — he got separate presents.

The Russians I asked about Valentine’s Day agreed that it was an imported holiday, so they don’t celebrate it in a big way. Nonetheless, they echoed the common American complaint that giving flowers and cards has gotten old. Guess romantic cliches have outlived their life here, too.

Valentine's Day risottoFor V-Day in Novgorod we un-veganized one of my favorite recipes, the Post-Punk Kitchen’s pumpkin cranberry risotto. (Not that Russia’s made us completely anti-veg; it’s just that a can of coconut milk costs $5-$7 here, and I’ve only spotted it in Moscow.)

A Russian couple was supposed to join us for dinner, but the girl forgot her documents (dorm visitors have to leave their passports with the front door guards), so we shared our dinner with one of my German floormates.

The hedgehog and the rug I bought from the silver-tongued Turk, Hobama

The hedgehog and the rug I bought from the silver-tongued Turk, Hobama

I gave Alex a slew of little gifts – a pomander, a chocolate egg with a Roman centurion figurine inside, a heart-shaped pressed towel, and M & M’s. (Alex claims M & M’s are not to be found in Moscow, though every street kiosk in Novgorod has them!). And Alex gave me a stuffed hedgehog.  If you don’t get the appeal of hedgehogs, watch this.

Alex’s b-day we spent in Moscow. Since he worked until 8 p.m., he missed out on seeing a production of Gogol’s “The Nose,” which a friend and I saw at the Moscow Theater of Young Spectators. We had some lower-brow fun with him–a basement blini joint where a plate of three thin, greasy blini costs 25 roubles and a cat wandered freely between the patron’s tables to the kitchen. Mmm.

I gave Alex a t-shirt from Novodel, a design botique in Moscow, and a set of plastic Russian soldiers to quell his War Hammer withdrawl.

Now, back to work…until St. Patrick’s Day.

I celebrated my birthday on Monday, January 19, which coincides with the Russian Orthodox holiday Крещение, or Baptism. It marks the end of Epiphany by the Old Russian Calendar.

“Celebrate” in this context doesn’t mean going to church. Nope, I chose the more invigorating celebration — taking a midnight dip in the local river!

Birthday Dip

I went with two of my Russian friends, a journalist and a freelance photographer, who kindly captured my adventure with an entire sequence of photos. They explained to me how to safely take my first winter swim: make sure to warm up ahead of time with some lunges, don’t get your head wet, and drink something warm afterward. Nadya even tucked my towel and clothes inside her parka so they would be warm for me when I returned from the water!

When we got to the shore, there were dozens of people milling about. It’s a strange sight–men stripped down to their speedos standing next to women in heavy fur coats holding thermoses. It’s also a strange combination of people–Orthodox believers who baptize themselves on that night because they are imitating Christ and believe that doing so will protect their health throughout the year, along with polar bear club members, who just like swimming in freezing water.

It was only -5 Celsius that night, so the river was open. That means instead of making a dramatic plunge into a Russian cross-shaped hole in the ice, we just had to walk in. Less dramatic, but a little more intimidating, if you’ve ever had to walk slowly into cold water!

I watched a few of the first plunges, and when I didn’t notice too many terrified screams, I started my lunges. Once I warmed up, I peeled off my layers of clothes, slipped on my flip-flops, and skidded along the ice to the water’s edge. I ran in, dipped down to my chin, and ran out again. Done!

I toweled off quickly and clumsily clothed myself (tip: don’t try to put on tights when you legs are damp and numb) and drank some tea.

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Going for it.

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One of the lifeguards is standing on the left, just incase.

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The cold temporarily sapped my brain, hence the vacant expression.